New red wines: Love VQ-15 (VQ15, Rockpile) Yeast!

On my 2008 vintage dry reds, the Rockpile (VQ-15, VQ15) yeast is blowing away the Assmanshausen (AMH) and Bordeaux (BDX) yeasts. It provides a deep, sweet fruit; overall chocolate edge; silty tannic style to the mix.

According to the wholesalers, VQ15 is a recently isolated Californian strain that was selected from spontaneous Rockpile Syrah fermentations by Vinquiry in collaboration with winemaker Jeff Cohn. VQ15 is a moderate rate fermenter with average nitrogen demands. Due to its' ability to develop a structured yet lush and balanced mouthfeel, VQ15 is said to be suited to making rich, concentrated reds. Initial winemaker feedback has indicated that VQ15 does well with emphasizing varietal flavor and red fruit character. In addition, with careful hydration and nutrients, VQ15 delivers good mineral and spice notes to wine. VQ15 is recommended for Syrah, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best results from 59 to 90 degrees F, with an alcohol tolerance to 16%.

My own findings are that it seems to be outstanding on syrah, and excellent for providing a lushness to cabernet sauvignon, at least in its youthful stages.

Rating: ****+ 2005 Chez Ray Rutherford Bench Cabernet Sauvignon (CR5), Napa CA

Original Review, April, 2007: This is from the Brehm frozen grape series, with early tasting notes here. The 2005 Chez Ray Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon is made from frozen Brehm Vineyard grapes, fermented in a combination of D254 and D80 yeasts with two weeks of extended maceration (process here).

This is opaque black almost to the edges. The nose is emitting an incredible black inky violet aroma into the room. On the palate, this is pure aromatic ink, with slight yeast overtones. Drills into all your mental crevices with a lasting, sleek finish. Wow. Best so far from Chez Ray. Four stars with a plus for promise on the Spirit of Wine scale. Looking forward to watching this one over time.

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Updated October, 2008: A year and a half later. Still almost black in the glass, with purple glint at edge. Black ink is still the predominant aroma. The palate has a minerally cast, resolving to a slate-y, purple ink at the edges. The finish has that inkiness slowly trailing along a slow curve til it disappears at the horizon. Still four stars, but removing the plus, as it seems to be showing its true self now.

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Updated January, 2009: With lengthy decanting, the Chez Ray Rutherford Bench picks up serious chocolate and dark berry. Swirling depths. Very cool indeed.

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Updated, May, 2009: In the glass, the Rutherford cab is deep red, bordering on opaque in the middle. Aromas are muddled fruit and vegetables, quite sweet in style. The palate is round - it brings a bit of milk chocolate to the forefront, with balancing tannins and light acids touching the cheeks. Finish is actually quite lengthy. Awesome. Still four stars for sure, bringing the plus back for its happy balance.

Awesome Blend: Chez Ray, StarFire and Starry Night

This is an awesome red blend:
Chez Ray Hopland Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Mendicino County, CA
StarFire Zinfandel, 2006, Lodi, CA (commercial)
Starry Night Wilderotter Vineyard Zinfandel, 2003, Amador County, CA (commercial)

Review notes: In the glass, medium/light red, hues of brick at the edge. Aromas are old, leathery and fall leaves. On the palate, explodes with sweet and savory fruit, lifted with just a hint of acids and solid fine tannins. Soft, lingering finish, like watching a sunset from a soft, old leather chair.