**** 2005 Windsor Russian River Cabernet Franc (F5), Sonoma County, CA - Review and Rating

Original Review, August, 2008: This is second sampling of the 2005 Windsor Russian River Cabernet Franc, Sonoma County, CA. Grapes were frozen from Brehm Vineyards. First tasting was during our 2005 vintage blending party in the fall of 2006.

Let's see how it's doing with a bit of age. In the glass, this is quite light and translucent, with colors of brick and red. Aroma is fruity, moderately bright, with a blast of medium-toasty oak. On the palate, the first note is a sweet blast of bright fruit in the middle of your mouth. That sweet friendliness slides along your tongue and to the sides of your mouth. There it delivers just a pinch of cheek-tightening acid. Flavors are rich, ripe blackberry and red cherries. Tannins seem mild, but moderate additional aging certainly seems possible. Three stars out of five on the Spirit of Wine scale, with an additional plus for friendly approachability.


During the blending party, we said: "fruit, light aroma, nice tannin balance (*), flavorful, high tannin, alcohol (85), cherry/cab, mid tight tannin, mid fruit, mid acid, mid alcohol, richest so far".
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Updated Review, January, 2009: Medium red in the glass, seems to have picked up a bit of deepness in the middle. Aromas are now more serious, inky, with oak/alcohol overlay. On the palate, this is tight, taut, pulling at the sides of your cheek and your tongue. It's saying "feed me, feed me". It wants. What I think it wants is time. It's not a time for it to yield,
though. I'll leave the score, but definitely put it away for awhile. A pretty long while.

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Another updated review, December, 2009: Still medium red. Aromas still have a now-richer inkiness, with oak and black cherry notes, along with a brighter red berry twang. Now a yeast cherry creaminess - not sweet though - comes across in the mid-palate. Plays with the cherry fruit on the sides of your cheeks. Tannins and acids freeze-frame the taut fruit, holding it in your cheeks til the next sip. Serious stuff, now becoming drinkable. Decant opens it up even further. Yum. Classic California cabernet. Four stars now with the additional bottle age. Could be good for a few more years too. Whoohoo!

Rating: *** 2005 Chez Ray (Wine Kit) Woodbridge Ranch 11 Cabernet Sauvignon - Central Valley, CA

Original Review May, 2007: This is wine made from a bag of grape juice! It is called the Selection Estate Woodbridge Ranch 11 Cabernet Sauvignon. I made it more or less following Winexpert instructions.

I did not use the bentonite for clearing and I made it to about 5.5 gallons rather than 6 gallons. The major change I made was to add a bunch of skins from my own Lodi and Napa fermentation to potentially give this a bit more aromatic and tannin "punch". We'll see what came of all this...

Color is an even deep red. While swirling, grape juice aromas jump out of the glass. On closer examination, aroma is a mild liquor-like cherry, maybe like smelling the inside of a chocolate-covered cherry, but without the chocolate. The favor fills the mouth with a round, smooth touch, no complexity, no aromas, but big and round in the middle. Just a touch of cherry around the edges. And a finish that flits past you before you even notice.

In total, this is like some kind of mixture of wine, grape juice and new port. Not quite wine; but not quite a liquor either. Not something to write home about; but not a total abomination. For ratings, I'm stuck between two-plus and three-minus. I guess I'd open another bottle, so that's three-minus. (But, to give full disclosure, part of the reason I'd so readily open to another bottle is probably that I've got a couple dozen of them from the five-gallon batch!)

For comparison, here's what the manufacturer says about this bag 'o juice:"Our Cab has trademark black currant and cherry flavors, but its true triumph is the subtle weave of complex flavor compounds that contribute to the overall experience. Oak and tannins, pepper and spice, combining structure and rich fruit for a red wine that dazzle from first aroma to long elegant finish."

Well, that sounds a bit "je ne sais quoi" to me!
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Updated Review, October, 2008: Still a nice mid-palate, round and cherry. Not enough before or after, though.
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Updated again, December, 2009:

In the glass: Deep blood red and purple, opaque from within about a quarter inch of the glass edge.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, still has that cherry cordial element.

On the palate: Think now more like a cherry caramel, sweetness lifts up and to the top of your palate, with light acids descending.

And the finish: Seems a bit longer than I noted before, with light caramel drifting away.

In summary: Not so bad an experience overall. I'd go with three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. It has actually held up pretty well to the four years in bottle.

Comparing pressed-dry with extended maceration wines

For the 2008 Chez Ray vintage, I tried an experiment, separating the vintage into two batches: one batch pressed dry (ie, immediately as fermentation completed); and the second batch pressed after extended maceration.

Today, I have some recently bottled sample batches of 2008 merlot and zinfandel to compare between these two pressing techniques.

Let's start with the Chez Ray Merlot, 2008:

Pressed dry: The pressed dry merlot shows medium dusty red in the glass. Aromas are bright, bold, plumy and yeasty. A strong inky, alcoholic component. On the palate, a bright but bold mid palate impact, showing very ripe plums and some blackberry. Finishes clean.

Extended maceration: The merlot which underwent extended maceration shows similar in the glass, a touch less purple. Aromas seem to show a somewhat riper, spongy plum element. On the palate, the impact is round, full and soft and ripe in the back of the tongue. Seems more aged already, with less definitive fruit. The finish curls with a bit of acid. Slightly inferior to the pressed dry version.

Now let's try the Chez Ray Zinfandel, 2008:

Pressed dry: The pressed dry zinfandel shows medium cherry red in the glass. Upon swirling, aromas are tangy, metallic and almost citrus. On the palate, a spicy fruit touches the front of the mouth first, slowly unfolding back, sweeter and sweeter as it moves back along your tongue. The finish is moderate and clean.

Extended maceration: The zinfandel which underwent extended maceration shows a similar color - possibly just a touch more faded. Aromas show a similar note, a touch less tangy and bright. The palate is even, full and flush from the start, beginning at the middle of your tongue and spreading out. Perhaps even some chocolate elements as it spreads. Slick, clean finish. Improved over the pressed dry version.

Overall observations: My expectations were that the extended maceration might cause each of the wines to lose some "edge" and distinctiveness. It is probably true that the "edge" has been slightly muted in both. However, with the zinfandel, the extended maceration did not mute the final result. In the merlot, it caused a bit more aged "genericism" in the final product. In the zinfandel, though, it nicely knitted together some otherwise discordant elements. Perhaps that would happen with age in the pressed-dry zinfandel, perhaps not.

So my findings on extended maceration are, in the final analysis, mixed. I believe it muddied the merlot, but enhanced the zinfandel. If I was forced to operate one way or another on all my wines based on this one tasting, I would probably choose to press dry. That is because I believe the merlot was challenged more than the zinfandel was improved.

Too bad life is so complicated!

Pressing the 2009 Mendocino Zinfandel

After three weeks of cold (approx 62 degrees F) fermentation, today I pressed the 2009 Mendocino Zinfandel which was acquired as fresh grapes.

Yield was approximately 9 gallons from four crates of grapes.

*** Chez Ray Zinfandel, 2004, Lodi, CA - Wine Review

By way of background: The Chez Ray Zinfandel, 2004, was made from Lodi grapes, fermented warm, with a combination of French and American oak.

In the glass: Medium to deep red.

On the nose: Fruity, lightly smoky, wet red cherry.

On the palate: Smooth, red fruit in the middle of your mouth. Like a gob of blackberry that has all the tartness removed. Kinda nice in that respect. Balance of the flavors include a general even sweetness, tiny bits of acids crawl up into your cheeks.

And the finish: Sweet acids slowly fade away, and with them any hints of fruit.

In summary: Pleasant, though not intense nor distinctive. Less intensity andfriendliness than I'd expect from a zinfandel. Still, three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale, as I would return to this another time. Could be a nice blender with something offering a bit more structure.